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Tub Removal

100K views 62 replies 38 participants last post by  GRM1230 
#1 · (Edited)
Tub Removal Instructions

seen a few posts and been asked about taking the yj tub off, so instead of replying to individual posts, i'll post it here!
this is assuming that the jeep was running and driving. some steps can be skipped (removing the grill for example) but this is the way i have removed mine, twice last year......:brickwall :brickwall
also, i had a 5 speed, so i do not know the way to remove the gear shifter from an auto, if you even need to??
here goes.....
remove the hood, and support rods. disconnecting the wire for the under hood light.
remove the header tanks on the driver side inner fender for the rad overflow and washer fluid. take the hose off the rad and keep it with the header tank. unplug the 2 plugs that go down to the washer tank, and disconnect the hoses. you can normally tie the hoses together and keep from losing the fluid.mark the hoses! 1 is front and the other for a rear wash/wipe.
remove the fender/grill lights and unplug all light connections.
the wiring will end at the passenger side fender light. pull the wiring from that point, thru the square hole in the grill, and feed it all back around in front of the rad, up thru the driver side hole, and back to the bulkhead plug.
unplug the ecm and the big plug on the bulkhead that goes to the pdc and the lights. rest these plugs on the motor. unplug the connector that goes thru the firewall. the plug itself is under the dash. put it ontop of the motor
reach under the speedo, unplug the speedo cable if equiped. be carefull not to break the plastic, you need to push in on the 2 sides and it will come out.
remove the driver side fender. the bolts run down the edge of the fender to the tub, there are 4 i think, plus 2 support braces.
the bolts to the grill are inside the outer fender at the front.6 i think and a brace, all 1/2" heads.once all bolts are out, raise and remove the fender.
remove the battery, battery tray, and unclip the pdc and slide it forwards toward the motor. same bolts for the passenger side fender. after the bolts are out, lift and remove.
unclip all the wires that are secured to the bulkhead/firewall. unplug all sensors that are mounted there, labeling the plugs and wires. unscrew the ground wires.
check that all cables/wires are free of the firewall and bulkhead.
the grill has 1 big bolt at the bottom, in the center. unbolt that and lift off the grill/rad (after draining the rad/tranny cooler if used and removing the hoses from the motor...)
thats the front end taken care of!
unbolt the steering joint at the top joint, freeing the steering wheel.
under the dash, unclip the clutch and brake pedals.
unbolt the brake booster assembly (4 bolts) and either remove or support so not to break or damage the lines. the master cyl and prop valve will stay with the booster.
unbolt the clutch cylinder from the bulkhead and support.
undo the throttle cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the firewall.
undo the emergency brake cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the floor.
under the driver side rear corner, disconnect the fuel filler hose and vent from the tank. unplug the electrical connector for the tank.
remove all exhaust hangers from the underside of the tub.
if you have an aftermarket bumper that has a back up light, remove the wires to it.
remove the roll bar inside the tub, and of course the doors. (that is a lot of weight to pick up!)
remove the gearstick on a manual tranny. the haynes/clymer manual will detail this step. remove the rubber boot, and the 2 metal plates that are fastened to the floor by the gear shifters.
get the biggest impact gun you can get, and remove the body mount bolts!!!!:laugh:
there are 3 pairs running down the side of the frame rails.
1 pair is under the tub, above the front of the fuel tank.
the 2 rear ones are at the sides of the rear bumper.3/4" head bolts if i remember right. the bolts are 2 or 3 different sizes, so remember where they go!!!
double check all lines and cables under the tub, if one or two are ziptied to the tub, cut the ties.
crawl all over the tub, front, under, and back to make sure everything is undone.
get 3 good friends and each pick a corner! the front is by far the heaviest!!
all 4 of you lift straight up, then walk back towards the rear of the jeep and put the tub down after it has cleared the rear end. this is a lot easier than trying to lift it over the motor and all the wires etc. the fuel filler lines should be on the tub, so be carefull not to damage them. you can remove the lines altogether, but there is no real need.
i think that about covers it! if i forgot something, chime in and correct me.
timewise, the 1st time will take @a day from start to finish.
i would highly recommend new body mounts and bolts.
if you hav a major issue with a body mount bolt. i would impact the snot out of it and fix it when the tub is off. you can stand the tub on its side on some old carpet and get to the bottom of it pretty easy.
good luck, may the force be with you!!
the 1st body off....
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tread


2nd time, with a new frame and motor....same damn year!!!!!:drool:

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle
 
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#3 ·
more than welcome, like i said, i may have forgotten some small part, thats why i said to crawl all over it and double check all cables and wires...:thumbsup:
if you need any help, dont be affraid to gimme a shout on pm's....
martin
 
#5 ·
the bulkhead plugs i was reffering to off memory, are the ones that are near the brake booster assembly. they feed the interior with power, aswell as the ecm wiring....
they have a bolt IIRC in the middle of the 2 plugs. undo the bolt and just pull the plugs out!:thumbsup:

martin
 
#6 ·
Yep, they are bolted togeather.
 
#7 ·
cheers patrick, i couldnt be bothered ready through my whole post, but they are about the only plugs on going through the bulkhead IIRC.
Mind, mine is suck a frankenjeep anymore, i doubt i have half the stuff i listed, but replaced it all with chevy/autometer wiring...:eek:

martin
 
#9 ·
doors

this is a total nub question but i cant get my freakin hard doors off my yj. i tried opening them at different angles and lifted up but they go nowhere. the bottom hinge seems like it wants to separate but the top remains firmly together. can anyone help?
 
#11 ·
this is a total nub question but i cant get my freakin hard doors off my yj. i tried opening them at different angles and lifted up but they go nowhere. the bottom hinge seems like it wants to separate but the top remains firmly together. can anyone help?
Did you take the nut off of the top pin? If you did, then it might just be stubborn, have a friend help you so you can put a couple of blocks of wood under it and jack it up, one of you jacks while the other catch's the door, then when you put it back on, use some kind of grease on the pin so it slides in and out better.
 
#12 ·
holy thread revival!
doors......if there are no nuts on the pins/bolts, beat em out. i had to do that every time i removed my doors.
roll bar.....it can stay on while removing tub. it is not fastened to anything more than the tub itself.

martin
 
#15 ·
thanks left lane! that post was what i was lookin for. I am just a cheapy free member right now so i cant search unless i go to google, thats why i never found yours.. ha i will be switching to the 20 dollar one, just wanted to check the site out more before i did.
 
#16 ·
No problem mate.
If you go go advance search on Google, you can put in Jeepforum.com as where to search!
But shelling out the membership is worth it for all the other benefits too:thumbsup:

Martin
 
#20 ·
Oh oh.
They are easy enough to fix with the tub off though, and you will never have an issue with a seized bolt afterwards huh?:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Martin
 
#21 ·
Tub Swapping

Just figured I'd post my question here about which tubs styles can be put on a YJ frame. I posted it on the main, but figured I might get a better response in here. So if anyone is interested, please reply and let me know which tub styles and how difficult the swap is. Thanks.
 
#22 ·
Tub styles?
You mean a TJ tub onto a YJ frame?
If so, why?

Martin
 
#23 ·
Martin
First of all, thank you for the great write-up. I did what you said and it worked very well. The only thing I would recommend to anyone thinking of removing the tub is, don't start without an impact gun. You will just damage the heads and have a hell of a time later trying to remove them once you buy the above said the above impact.
Another thing I tested after reading on the forum, broken chassis bolts can be easily be removed by heating the nuts with a torch, and the broken studs can be easily removed with a stud extracter, a vice-grip or a monkey wrench.
 
#24 ·
Good observation tdewit, and one I took for granted:confused:
I use the impact so often, I totally missed mentioning it in the thread! It is just like working on the rig without a cold beverage at hand:cheers2:

Martin
 
#27 ·
I am doing the same. I need to replace both floor pans and do a lot of fabricating to replace rust. I want to say thanks for all the info it is a huge help and made simple for us.

My question is, it looks like the fenders have been bonded to the tub through welding and gluing. I can grind all this off but would you recommend pulling the engine first or just cutting as needed? I really don't want to pull the engine. If I do I will be forced to rebuild it because of my OCD.
 
#28 ·
I am doing the same. I need to replace both floor pans and do a lot of fabricating to replace rust. I want to say thanks for all the info it is a huge help and made simple for us.

My question is, it looks like the fenders have been bonded to the tub through welding and gluing. I can grind all this off but would you recommend pulling the engine first or just cutting as needed? I really don't want to pull the engine. If I do I will be forced to rebuild it because of my OCD.
The fenders are bolted to the tub, unless someone changed it at some point during its life.
 
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