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1976 CJ7 brake problem!

96 views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  devildog80  
#1 ·
I have a 1976 CJ-7 Levi's that came factory with drum brakes front and rear. I have had hell figuring out my brake problem. Below is a list of issues with the timelines spelled out.

1. Out of no where with 0 indication I lost all brakes. I checked and I wasn't getting any pressure from the master cylinder.
2. I replaced the master cylinder, with a 1978 model master cylinder ( I had one on the shelf because I own 3- '78 model cj's). Bled the brake system and gained rear brakes, but did not get any front braking back.
3. I diagnose a leaky front brake wheel cylinder.
4. I upgrade the front brakes to disc brakes, this includes the soft lines as well.
5. after bleeding the system I still have 0 front brakes.
6. I notice a saturation leak on the factory splitter valve on the frame.
7. I bypass the factory splitter with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I also replace all front hard lines at this point as well.
8. I bleed the system and still no braking power. If anything I have now lost the rear brakes as well.

The jeep is now at a mechanic buddies of mine who has WAY more experience with brakes than me.

He called me today and said he doesn't think that the master cylinder is right, because he cut a bolt and put it between the brake booster and the master cylinder and he gained some braking back. However he said it doesn't feel right. I did some looking and assuming he is right and it's the wrong MC, I dont think I want to go back with the factory MC because it probably wont have the umph to power front disc, so do I replace the brake booster with a later model that is for disc/drum? or what are y'alls thoughts?


PS- In the midst of all this time line I have swapped about 3 different MC on the jeep and the one currently on there is came off a running and driving jeep with good brakes. I know it's not a bad MC.

Pic of the jeep for attention.
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#2 ·
Sounds like pushrod/lack of pushrod length is causing your issues going from non power drum to power disc. make sure that the pushrod is seated in the booster and then you can use this tool to measure the master cylinder and then adjust the pushrod in the booster. Also make sure that you have the correct output of the master going to the correct end, big/rear to the front disc and small/front to the rear drums.

Amazon.com: BARTOO Brake Adjustment Tool Brake Booster Push Rod Adjustment Tool Master Cylinder Push Rod Length Gauge Suit for Most Brake Boosters with Adjustable Pins : Automotive

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#3 ·
Did you bench bleed the MC? Make sure you’ve at least got a good MC with no air pockets. There are little bench bleed hose kits on Amazon for like $10. And you can actually do it with the MC on the firewall.

Second question. Do you have the holdback tool for your proportioner installed when bleeding. If you don’t hold the shuttle in the center of the Proportioner, it might move and causes all sorts of problems.

Last, are all your brake lines crud free? Seems you replaced some, so that is good.
 
#4 ·
But did the old lines push some crud down into the calipers or back to rear drums, when swapping MC's?
Hope your mechanic buddy gets them figured out :)
 
#5 ·
Buster- I have 100% bled the system properly. I bench bleed all MC before installing. I also use a vacuum system for bleeding that has never failed us before.

I dont think I know what the hold back tool is.... I have another CJ with an entire willwoods MC/ valve setup and I didn't have any problems bleeding it when I installed it.

Devildog- I dont think it's crud, because each time we bleed we get great fluid flow.


Right now the plan is to remove an entire brake boost assembly off one of my '78 jeeps and take it to my buddy and see if that works.
 
#6 ·
The booster is just that, and any MC that will bolt up to it will work with it, but you need to ensure the push rod inside is correct length. That is what allows the two parts to work together.