No, a quart low did no damage.

The clacking is the lifters. Typical on cold starts after sitting.

 

I cant hear that thing you posted. It shows the words and the line moves at the bottom but no sound. Could be my fault though, not a computer person.


So you changed the oil and corrected the amount and it quieted? Drive it around and its good

 

If you let it play, at 41 seconds, it'll start the sounds, the beginning the description. I have a good headset and still didn't really hear anything scary. My 2006 4.0l is definitely not quiet, so I can't help in comparison, plus I'm 67 so the hearing may not be as good as the younger crowd. (auto-spell is not the greatest sometimes, edited for english).

 

You can remove the serpentine belt and start it for several seconds without causing any damage; this would eliminate any pulley noises.

 

4.0s.can be loud and i have seen them ran hot till they stopped running and then let them cool and they start back up just fine. 1 quart low isn't anything on these old tank engines. If there was a zombie apocolypse and you only had one vehicle/engine choice, a jeep with the 4.0 would be it. Probably not a wrangler because i would want more space inside to carry supplies but that engine would be my choice just because of how much it lives through.


Our old 99 or 98 xj cherokee is still running and we sold it at almost 350k miles a bunch of years back. We have had a yj with 325k on it and it ran like a top.

 

superj, if you just checked spelling you could be a poet. Relatively well said.

 

Yeah. These stupid phone keyboards. And i never reread till after i hit send and its ro late

 

"...and its ro late

Pardon me while I just smile...

 

Hi Gang

I appreciate ALL YOUR REPLIES! Thank You ... 😉

Would like to point out, I know this engine well ... (had it since 2008), and I also know that clacking noise occurred during (or) shortly after my last scheduled oil change. I still think the gauges gave me a 'FALSE SAFE' reading with regards to proper Oil Pressure when I was actually about TWO Quarts low ... In any event, I've changed the oil and filter and now it permanently has that 'clacking' sound which it NEVER had before ... I'm not sure but maybe its just overall engine age?

How bout this: In the event it may be 'noisy lifters' or any other valve age sound, will a can of STP help reduce that wear and noise? (If so, I might have to drain off a little oil first)?

Thank you again (all my friends) ...

Mike

 

How bout this: In the event it may be 'noisy lifters' or any other valve age sound, will a can of STP help reduce that wear and noise? (If so, I might have to drain off a little oil first)?

I know oil additives usually get shuffled into the "Snake Oil" category right off the bat, but if there is anything you could possibly add to your crankcase to save the day, it would be Muscle Products MT-10. I am recognized by the US Federal Court System as a "Fuel Economy Expert", and in addition to many other things, I have researched engine oils and additives rather extensively. Get some MT-10 and if the noise doesn't go away, no other additive on the planet will quiet it down.

 

You can try adding slick50 or anything yiu want to to see if it helps. You can also do one of those engines clean treaments and then change the oil twice with cheaper oil and see how it sounds. Its up to you if you want to do that kind of stuff.

Rotella oil works really well in the 4.0 when you get higher miles. The diesel oil.

 

thank you

 

Thanx for your reply ... no unfortunately after changing the oil and filter, got no improvement - the clacking sounds continue ....

 

Hi again Gang!

I haven't driven it more than 2 miles (and very slowly). I ordered an 8 once bottle of MT10.

Meanwhile it developed a valve knock noise, (or) perhaps the sound of an engine 'MISS'? Its HERE

Bear in mind, (although I drop the oil regularly), the ignition rail is OEM (2004 - 157K) and the plugs have over 60K. Maybe its just an engine miss in need of NEW plugs and a NEW Ignition Rail?

Thanks for everything ...

 

That's a big difference in sound in comparison to the first video. However, sound NEVER translates well over the internet in situations like these. Any car could sound like it has a rod knock if the mic is in the right spot.

But it does sound bad in the last video. Does the video match the sound YOU hear?

Is this a manual or auto? Does is make a difference if the clutch is pressed or if the transmission is in/out of gear?

 

I'd like to thank EVERYONE for their professionalism and kind generosity in contributing to this thread. Many apologies; it seems we missed an Error Code. Our original code reader wasn't working properly. The Correct Code indicates p004 throttle position sensor; which conceivably could be causing the problem. If the moderator wishes to close this thread, I'll start a new corrected discussion, (or) just continue here? Thank you all for your patience .... 😉

"When a throttle position sensor (TPS) goes bad, it sends inaccurate data to the engine control unit (ECU), leading to symptoms like a rough or unstable idle, engine hesitation or jerky acceleration, loss of engine power, increased fuel consumption, and a check engine light. These issues occur because the ECU miscalculates the correct air-fuel mixture and ignition timing, disrupting smooth engine operation"

So now we have a different situation: Using Advance Auto Part Number ECC1032 (conveniently local), we were unable to replace the bad TPS due to poor manufacturing mismatch. As always, (when available), experience leads to Mopar. (the correct part). There's others on ebay (a little cheaper), we're looking into those as well.

Thanks Again Guys! 😁 👌

 

And hopefully you are good to go once you swap that part out

 

The general consensus is use NTK parts when Mopar sensors are unavailable. Bosch is a bad word here.