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'79 CJ Vac can purge question

343 views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  SwampRatt  
#1 ·
When I bought my ’79 a couple years ago I rebuilt the vacuum canister system in an attempt to reduce the gas smell in the garage. Personally, I think it smells wholesome and fine but the wife doesn’t agree .

The 304 had most of the emission stuff ripped out and I replaced the fume stuff what I wanted best I could.

I routed the tank, carb float bowl and PCV correctly with the purge routed to ported vac on the carb, and it helped. But it seems somedays it stills stinks up the garage, other days it’s fine. It seems to stink up the joint after short drives but no so much after longer drives.

The purge will only suck fumes when the engine is running. I do not have any check valve or shut off mechanism on the purge line which I have seen references to online. Something that closes the purge hose/line when the engine is off. My theory is: “on longer drives the purging of fumes is more complete than a short drive that doesn’t have time to purge completely”.

My question for the emissions enlightened folks here is this a valid assumption on my part? If I rig up a valve that closed the purge line when the engine shuts off would this help?
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Drive distance shouldn't affect the vapor purge system.

When you say you "rebuilt the vacuum canister system" did that include a new charcoal canister?

Are you running a factory air cleaner assembly?
Drive distance shouldn't affect the vapor purge system.

When you say you "rebuilt the vacuum canister system" did that include a new charcoal canister?

Are you running a factory air cleaner assembly?
Yes, new canister. Delorean. Factory air cleaner.
 
#7 ·
Could you post some pictures of your setup? Vac lines, top of the canister?

I did similar on my 83 when I switched from the vacuum line spaghetti Carter carb to Holley EFI. I did the full system: new check valve off the tank, new DeLorean cannister, new 2 port coolant temp switch, and new silicone lines. The vapor cannister purge control comes from ported vac on the bottom of the throttle body, but doesn't open until the coolant temp switch recognizes its up to temp. The ERG is on this same coolant temp switch, but goes through an additional temp switch in the air cleaner housing.

Also, is the inlet flap on your air cleaner functioning? Even with the EFI (no gas sitting in the carb bowl), I can smell a little gas when I pull off the air cleaner lid. But no smell at all with the lid on.

And beautiful Jeep! My first CJ was a 6 cylinder 79 with the Renegade package, but in the lighter Alpaca Brown.
 
#8 ·
Also, is the inlet flap on your air cleaner functioning? Even with the EFI (no gas sitting in the carb bowl), I can smell a little gas when I pull off the air cleaner lid. But no smell at all with the lid on.
I believe the OP's '79 factory air cleaner housing only has the TAC flap, and not the second vapor flap that came on later models.

You bring up a good point about running the canister purge signal thru a CTO, so it only purges when the engine is up to normal operating temps.
 
#9 ·
The line going into the charcoal deally (green garden hose colored line) Is not only for vapors

It is the gas tank vent!

If it's "Check Valved" or similar, your tank want get air (vent) and fuel will be incapable of

being pumped up front.

Maybe your smell is just exhaust rich from the choke not fully opening on a short jaunt.

-----JEEPFELLER
 
#13 ·
Choke = sucking in more fuel ---- in an attempt to get the Air/ Fuel ratio correct as it runs thru it's cycle to off

No choke may mean more air and not enough fuel (air/ fuel ratio suffers) until you reach operating temperature.

In ez terms, the exhaust be emitting a not so perfect burning of gases (fumes).

I have a manual choke on both of mine, in the winter I use it and maybe sorta "ween" it off until I reach operating temp (maybe 1-1/2 miles)

During the summer, I'll use the choke on my CJ2A till operating temp

On my '77 CJ-5 (258) I don't use it at all, I jump in and go!

However, since it's "cold" for 1-1/2 miles, I can tell it's not ready to race YET, and since the Air/ Fuel mix is not perfect yet

I dare not pull out in front of anybody YET, in Mr. Jeep, because he might SPIT or SPUTTER or even Quit.

After my 1-1/2 miles or so, I can cut it close when I turn in front of somebody.

Mr. Jeep has lived in the garage for long periods of time with no fuel smells,

but mostly stays in the driveway.

Willy is in there 100% of the time.

----JEEPFELLER
 
#16 ·
Here is a pic of my frame before I put the new body on. The vent lines are on the drivers side and can be accessed with the tank in. Although not a bad idea to drop the tank and replace the rubber lines between the tank and the hardline. I left my vent lines extra long then shorted them when I installed the new combination check/rollover valve. Here's a link to what I used, it's a good upgrade if either of yours in the rear of the tub are shot. eBay Rollover Check Valve

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