PB Blaster, or equal, all nuts/bolts to be undone 24hr+ prior to removal.

Zip ties and duct tape are always helpful to hold things out of the way that you didnt fully remove (hoses, cables, wires).

Sounds like you're pretty set though. I know others with have more detailed input. 😁👍

 

Leave the manifolds on TAKE THE EXHAUST LOOSE!

Although this ain't engine I'm showing it's a good idea to keep things in order

and what exactly came from where.

Mark the boxes --- be detailed--- it will save heartaches later on

-----JEEPFELLER

'Nuther fix on my other Jeep

------JEEPFELLER

 

It's going to teeter once you get it on the mounts. Have a jack or blocks of wood close by.

 

There's a lot of man-handling involved, pushing and pulling. Make sure your floor is clear of hardware. A simple washer on the floor will stop your hoist from rolling right now! Just think about it in reverse order of removing the engine. You're not going to have any problems.

 

While it's in the air and EZ access

a rear main seal and a high volume oil pump might be in order

along with the newer type gasket

-----JEEPFELLER

 

While it's in the air and EZ access

a rear main seal and a high volume oil pump might be in order

along with the newer type gasket

View attachment 4335898

View attachment 4335900

View attachment 4335899

-----JEEPFELLER

has less than 500 miles on new engine

 

I did the same thing when I swapped my 258/T-176/Dana300 out for a 304/TF999/Dana300. I just disconnected the exhaust and bell housing, pulled the engine, set it aside, then dropped the transmission and transfer case (still attached to the skid plate), followed by the exhaust and transferred it to the other Jeep. Then installed the transmission/T-case, and finally the engine. Taking the fenders off is helpful as well (mine are on piano hinges, but it's pretty much the same thing - fenders are out of the way).

As JF mentioned, if you have any issues with the rear main, oil pan/pump, or even the clutch, now is definitely the time to take care of those while you have them exposed.

Just pulled the 304/TF999/Dana300 from the 'donor' vehicle (which I gave to a friend with my old drivetrain as a project vehicle).

Engine's up and out of my Jeep.

Exhaust, transmission and transfer case going into the project Jeep.

Ready to go into its new home. Notice the exhaust, transmission and T-case are in waiting to receive.

And tucked back into its new home.

Everything went like clockwork - so, it took my pal Dave and I something like 4-5 hours all said and done. The next day was buttoning up all the last things so he could take it home.

 

I’ve swapped numerous engines over the decades.
A few items you could purchase to make the job much easier, especially if you’re doing the work on your own.
One is a Engine Leveler, it allows you to adjust the angle of the engine or engine and transmission as you raise them up.
They are especially helpful when dropping the engine back in and assist in aligning the block to the frame mounts.
Second is a transmission jack. They make it simple to remove and move the transmission once it’s disconnected from the block and makes it easy to move the trans around the garage floor.
They are especially helpful to align the transmission back up to the engine during reassembly.
Third is an engine dolly. They are great to disassemble and assemble the engine on and aid in mounting the transmission.
For what it’s worth, the easiest way to pull an engine is by using a gantry crane and a chain hoist.
You can lift an engine as far up as you need to and simply roll the vehicle back from under, then lower the engine.
It saves you from removing grilles and fender from high vehicles and boats.
You can get a nice gantry crane from harbor freight, build your own from wood, weld one together or even by supporting a large beam in your garage.
I know the equipment costs money, but it does simplify the job and usually I can sell the equipment after I finish the job for almost what I paid for it.
You can also rent the equipment from some rental yards.

 

Engine Leveler - yes, helpful. But, it's not too hard to figure out how to get the engine 'level' on the chain.

Transmission jack - absolutely! I've never pulled an engine/transmission/transfer case all still assembled. It's too much like tempting fate with all of that weight. Much easier to separate the engine, leave the transmission and T-case on the skid plate and use the flat part of the skid plate as a solid surface for the transmission jack to mate up to.

Rent vs. buy. If you're going to be doing this more than once or twice, buy your stuff. If not, just rent or borrow as needed. Don't get the cheap junk from HF, though. When you're under that engine dangling from a crane, trying to do something before sliding it back in is not the time to roll the dice on cheap Chinese welds or hydraulics.

You lost me at gantry crane. The rolling crane is far better for conducting swaps because you can put it anywhere you need it, whereas the gantry is either side-to-side or front-to-back (depending on orientation of the vehicle and gantry mounting points). And then you're not usually able to move the vehicle(s) easily. In the case of my swap, both Jeeps were right next to each other, so we pulled the items from one Jeep and slide right over to install into the other - all without having to move an unpowered vehicle or two (especially, on a driveway with a little bit of slope). Now, in a big shop area with a complete flat floor and lots of room - I can see how a gantry crane could be better. But, it really depends on your situation as to which is better.

FWIW - I built a gantry crane for my hard top hoist using the C-perlin rafters of my car port. Works like a champ!

 

I had one like this

Till the feller I lent it to died.

I liked it a whole lot, it was compact, a ratchet or pull bar tilts it, Then a "stop" swings into

a notch to lock it in place

----JEEPFELLER

 

I liked it a whole lot,

They still make it, or at least a Chinese knock-off version...

Amazon.com: wolfwo|Tilt Lift Engine Hoist Sling - 1 Ton Compatible with Most Engines- Capacity 3 to 1 Safety Facto- Adjustable 45°Tiltable Engine Lift for Lifting Engine-Durable Lifting Sling with Safety Lock : Automotive

Buy wolfwo|Tilt Lift Engine Hoist Sling - 1 Ton Compatible with Most Engines- Capacity 3 to 1 Safety Facto- Adjustable 45°Tiltable Engine Lift for Lifting Engine-Durable Lifting Sling with Safety Lock: Engine Hoists & Stands - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

When I swapped my 258 for a 360, I used a standard engine hoist with a leveler, and just my floor jack. I removed the trans, t-case, and crossmember all in one piece. Then I removed the bell-housing, Then I pulled the 258.

I decided to install the 360 with the bell housing and transmission attached. That's where the leveler came in handy, as I was able to adjust the angle of the whole thing to stab the trans thru the tunnel, then level it out to connect the motor mounts.

As you can see, I did not remove the fenders because I didn't want to damage the new paint. It was a weekend chore for me and a buddy, taking our time and sipping a few beers. I had everything buttoned up, and the ol' girl was drivable a few days later.

 

I purchased the two ton gantry crane from Harbor Freight.
It’s on four castors and you can move it anywhere you need to.
I bought it on one of their sales and sold it for the same price I paid for it when I was finished with it.

 

Oh, OK. Most of the gantry cranes I'm thinking of are typically attached to a rafter or stationary point up-high. Good to know - thanks for sharing!

Here's my hardtop hoist gantry in my carport. It does slide side-to-side on sealed-bearing casters, so I can park anywhere [under the hoist] to remove/install the top, and slide it over to the side as needed.

 

That is really nice.

 

i like the tilt lift engine hoist im working in my garage so options are limited. cant afford tranny jack for one job. i think i am going to split egingine and tranny so i can check clutch. egine is new less than 500 miles on it. had not planned on thisyet. i stumbled on this jeep while i was still finishing mechanical on mine. this one was already painted neon green and has no rust. saves me about 5k in body work on my rust bucket. soon ill have a jeep with no engine for sale for 500 or best offer in Reno, nv

 

Get a helper!!! The memories are far better than anything else.