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Control arms...or bushings?

152 views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  MDTJ06  
#1 ·
Welp...the Jeeps are begging for attention this week. Got an oil change on my diesel WK2 and bought front rotors because they were warped. Did the passenger side, no problem. Driver side....well...I figured out why the rotor warped - one piston in the caliper wouldn't retract. Frozen solid. So...got a caliper. Happy jeep now...but $$$$ :(

Now, for the TJ. Bone stock suspension, no lift, stock size tires. I've hit death wobble 3x, same spot on the same road (angled trench repair, hits it "just right" but only at a certain speed). I don't feel it in the steering wheel, it stays solid, but the damn Jeep feels like it's gonna come apart and I have to pretty much stop the Jeep to get the shakes to stop. I replaced the steering stabilizer, I replaced all 4 shocks (115k miles and one shock was soaking wet so I did the set)....same issue. Much more stable on the highway, but that one damned spot can still make 'er shake like crazy.

I'm thinking with the mileage...bad control arm bushings are a safe enough bet. Steering is solid, no clunks, no wander, turn the wheel and the jeep changes direction, all that good stuff...

My question is a "what would you do" question.

I would LOVE to put a set of tubular adjustables in - Core 4x4 has a set of 8 for $500 right now, plus $60 for all new hardware. But with what I just had to spend on the WK2...and the fact that I'm bleeding money in a rental apartment I'm renovating...$500 is a noticeable dent in the ol' budget.

Other option - replacement stock style control arms. About $125 for aftermarket stock style (stamped steel) with new bushings already installed - drop n swap.

Third option - new bushings in my existing arms. I have a press in the shop, and I could get either rubber, or poly, bushings for a couple hundred bucks for a set, and press them into my existing control arms.

I like to upgrade when I repair, whenever possible...and the adjustable tubular arms would be nice if I ever DO lift the jeep, because then I wouldn't have to buy arms AGAIN for the lift. But...it's a big budget dent, like I said.

I dunno.

Anyone have any thoughts? I don't "wheel" the jeep - it's a beach toy, summer convertible, winter "screw the snow plows" toy.
 
#4 ·
Do a dry steering test as suggested.

Check the ball joints.

Check all tie rod ends and steering joints.

Check the toe in alignment.

Rotate tires.

Aftermarket "upgrades" are rarely upgrades. Especially when it comes to suspension. I doubt your control arms are causing this anyway.
 
#7 ·
@MDTJ06 the most common 'root' cause of Death Wobble is from an imperfectly balanced front tire. An unbalanced tire spinning can cause a LOT of vibration and it happened to me when my previous TJ was still near new and nothing was worn out or loose yet. Turns out the tire shop that installed new all terrain tires on it neglected to pound the weights down onto a front wheel and within a mile after leaving the shop they fell off which caused MASSIVE Death Wobble, I could not believe how violent it was. They rebalanced the tire, apologized, and sent me on my way with no more DW until I got to 35's. But do the 'dry steering test' as suggested which means have a helper do rapid short left/right/left turns with the steering wheel while you closely examine all the steering components and track bar for sideways slop. Slop at where the front suspension components are bolted together can make it easier for DW to develop but I'd still suspect you have a bad tire balance up front too.
 
#9 ·
Well, finally got a chance to do the steer test. Everything looks tight, but the driver end of the track bar moves up and down a bit when turning the wheel back and forth. Looks like its not a replaceable ball joint...should I just grab a stock track bar and be done with it (NAPA/Autostoned)? Or are aftermarket/adjustables worth it (i.e. they come with replaceable ball joints)?
 
#11 ·
At this point I don't "plan" to...but who knows. If I score a good deal on a D44 rear with 3.73s and a matching front...that'll gear it for 31s...so I might put something small on it just for tire clearance....

But then I get in hers (also a 2006 4.0/6m, but with 3.73s, 31s, and a 3 or 4" lift done by the PO) and go for a ride...and man, I love my factory ride quality!

But I get what you're saying. My main reason behind an "upgrade" to an adjustable would be for the potential of a replaceable / serviceable ball joint, as opposed to replacing the whole arm. Again. If they have the same non-serviceable ball joint? I'll get a stock piece. This one lasted 115k miles, after all...
 
#12 ·
This front trackbar would be an excellent upgrade for now or if you lift:


It eliminates the balljoint at the frame end and converts to a double shear design. This allows for more travel. The bar is fully rebuildable as well.

The trackbar is made in the USA by IRO in their MN shop and has a lifetime warranty against bending or breaking.

I'm an IRO dealer. If you'd like pricing you can PM me here on the forum or email me at kolak@aol.com