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KDubs CJ7 "Life Experiences" Thread

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Discussion starter · #41 ·
With upcoming motor transplant figured I'd work on getting some stuff "out tha way". Post-nutter-de-clutter.

Stage 1: vacuum line cleanup...big thank you to all the pioneers who put in the time to figure this stuff out, diagram it and leave the breadcrumbs for those of us following behind.
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Stage 2: electrical cleanup. Currently have carefully removed the cardboard glovebox, removed the computer and pulled that connector/wire-loom through the firewall. Everything still fires up and operates with computer disconnected and found/ordered a replacement grommet for the computer loom in the firewall.
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That'll do for tonight, next gotta break open all the wire looms, cut the tape and ties and start surgically removing everything not needed. Figure it will be extensive but pretty simple considering all the vacuum switches/sensors are already removed.

Until then...✌
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
#43 ·
Kevin, I have a like new plastic glove box sitting out in the garage collecting dust if you want it.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
ChrisReyn said:
Kevin, I have a like new plastic glove box sitting out in the garage collecting dust if you want it.
Click to expand...
As usual, appreciate you sir, I've had one sitting on my "CJ7 list" on Amazon for 3+ years now 😆 🤣 😂, but find something endearing about the original as long as it continues to do it's job!!! If I ever gets wet it's done though so I'll keep you in mind!!
 
#45 ·
KDub1984CJ7 said:
As usual, appreciate you sir, I've had one sitting on my "CJ7 list" on Amazon for 3+ years now 😆 🤣 😂, but find something endearing about the original as long as it continues to do it's job!!! If I ever gets wet it's done though so I'll keep you in mind!!
Click to expand...
Pm me your address and I'll send it. It can collect Ok dust as easily as Ks dust
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
OK, knocked out some more of the Post-Nutter-de-Clutter this evening and making really good progress. Now down to tracing/verifying wires/operation...any input/insight welcome while I review the "Adventures Under the Hood" web archive...but 75% of the pics don't load...anyone save this in PDF before it went poof?!

So first things first, when I Nuttered, I elected to purchase a new Painless ignition harness and bypass the original rather than cut/hack the OEM harness. I just zip-tied the ends of the original harness back up out of the way.

1) original ignition harness, coil cap; dual red/white wires, one capped/disconnected and the other goes into a (3-way) solder joint in lower loom by starter/coil. Thinking this has to do with electric choke getting "engine running" signal and has, or will, be replaced by new harness.
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*black wire see #2
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2) black wire; grounded to block and goes into large computer loom directly above. Is this the "Altitude Jumper Wire" and just disconnect and go? That wire described as black/white...mine is solid black.
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3) Drivers side behind carb on intake manifold; pink...ground? Then feeding below that is a lime-green wire into a sensor on the rear of the intake manifold...Manifold Heater Switch?
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4) moving FWD on the intake manifold, now in front of the carburator, red/white wire, to Knock Sensor...not needed now by me but hard to find for others?
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5) Black wires feeding to sensor, or Cloolant Temperature Switch right? Need this as my air cleaner TAC system is still all in-TAC...right?
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Lastly...the wire snakes waiting for final removal.
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TIA for any input/answers. Ultimately I'd love to remove the OEM harnesses fully intact and can just run wires for the things I need/want to keep functional, but if something needs to be cut out I want to label what it is on the harness if someone else needs it.

Cheers 🍻
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
OK, being the Pat Sajack type guy that I am...I'll give a couple letters...er, numbers:

2) black wire to motor block ground: REMOVED
4) knock sensor: wire/cap removed and will remove sensor/adaptor (apparently this is a "dead end" and doesn't actually go INTO the manifold but more attaches to it)
5) unplugged at connections: coolant temp switch, O2 sensor and Sol-vac electrical connections.

Reconnected battery and she cranked right over and ran fine, all signals/lights still work. 👍

Started tracing choke wires OFF the choke and (1) goes into the flat pin connector atop back of manifold, (2) dives into the "loom of death" so will trace it later.

Red/white wire off old coil cap goes into loom white its "twin" terminates/capped; "same wire" red/silver on new coil cap routes with its "twin" back to starter/ignition relay...? More digging I guess? 🤷

Still got nothing on (3) pink or lime green wires on the back of intake manifold.

Any insight much appreciated!
 
#48 ·
So, you're trying to clean-up the underhood harness after a Nutter bypass to eliminate the unnecessary factory ECU wiring, I'm assuming? Wow. That's a lot, but I'll definitely be watching your progress since another pal has an '86 Golden Eagle that he recently swapped an '83 258 into and needs to tidy-up the rat's nest on his as well (it's nowhere nearly as clean as yours currently is), so that's going to be an icky undertaking.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
John, my engine builder called today, good news and...eh news:

Good news: he is really impressed with the job that previous shop did on the performance head that was gifted to me, especially the valve work. So that will save machine shop time/money!

Eh news: block i supplied to him, also gifted to me had a couple of stuck lifters and a spun bearing, some ridging in the cylinders. Said it appears oil changes were not a high priority for the last regular user (not who gave it to me as he pulled/replaced it during restoration. So, he is still hopeful but not overconfident that we'll still be able to use the 0.030 over pistons I supplied him with but also has tabs on a set of, up to, 0.060 over for about $160 if needed.

Said in some motors the 0.060 would make him nervous but he's talked to guys boring out twice that, on a stroked motor, running boost and not having block issues.

Everything goes to the machine shop tomorrow so we'll see how that comes out while I'm working on the rest of my decluttering!
 
#51 ·
You shouldn't have problems with .060 over, but .030 over would be better. Most of the bench racers on the 7173 Mustang forums I'm part of kept saying that the Cleveland can't handle .060 because of thin walls. Well... first of all, more than 3 vendors make pistons and rings in that size range, so it's not all THAT rare to go that big. And, I've read a LOT of information from engine builders, including an old dude in LA that builds Clevelands and FEs exclusively. He had no issues with .060 over on Clevelands saying there's plenty of meat there so they do just fine. He did say they wouldn't stand for too much abuse in the way of racing, but for average hot rod owners who just uses their cars for cruizing, no biggie. Mine's never seen the temp gauge needle rise past the 'R' on 'Normal' even on triple-digit summer days, so I'm pretty confident it'll last.

Should be fine. can't wait for you to get it back all freshened up.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Eric, thanks for indirectly telling g me I had my decimals in the wrong spot!! 🤦

PS: got the replacements grommet(s) in for where the computer loom goes through firewall (by battery box)...fits great, but may trim around the screw heads just a bit...and cleanup that area.
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I've got 5 extras now if anybody needs one...but would cost just as much to ship than order a pack for yourself?!?! 😆 🤣 😂

MECCANIXITY Rubber Grommet Mount... Amazon.com: MECCANIXITY Rubber Grommet Mount Size 70 x 30 mm Oval Double-Sided for Wire Protection Pack of 8 : Industrial & Scientific
 
#53 ·
.060 over will be fine on your block, although it's the last time it can be bored.

Congrats on finding a builder. I have still not found one yet for my engine, and I may end up doing it myself, which won't be anywhere near the detail I wanted.

I'm excited for you and for sure, jealous!
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
@Skerr do you have any Cars & Coffee events in your area? That's where I met John...and even if I didn't actually meet him that day, there were 3 people there that he has built their motors! Jump in the crowd, see what floats!

Oh, and we're not at .060 yet...still hoping the .030 gets the job done, and could even round out to .040...TBD.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Jim1611 said:
While you're tracing wires and getting rid of some would be a good time to take any lose and clean them up that will stay. I have used dielectric grease on connections with good results too.
Click to expand...
Jim, 100%!! My goal is to have everything tucked away like @Ken4444 did in his wiring write up. Should only take a loom or (2) going across the firewall to get it all organized, cleaned up and tucked away. I typically use dielectric grease in any quick crimp connects I've ever used, but any new connections here will be soldered and shrink wrapped...havent used grease in that application in the past, but prob a good idea/cheap insurance against moisture intrusion in the loom. :)(y)
 
#57 ·
Don't forget while you have your engine out to clean-up your firewall and inner fenders. I'd already done the inner fenders (3M Rocker Guard texture and Duplicolor Black Engine Enamel) because I wanted the contrast of the black engine bay to highlight my engine, but a quick clean and re-spray with some color-matched paint will have your engine bay looking super-keen in just a few hours. I didn't realize all of that weird stuff behind/under the battery tray while it was still all together.
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Two hours later
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#58 ·
Discussion starter · #60 ·
CJ7Guy1 said:
Dearest Dud, you already know what I think.

BUT, on the plus side, you've provided the perfect 'BEFORE' picture.

What a damn mess.

Can a non-Vet Jeeper get PTSD, I'm feeling triggered.....

- Patrick
Click to expand...
Patty!!! Where you been friend?!?! Thought about you earlier when there was a response to your EV 0-60mph thread! Guess I'll have to get an update on mine with the new motor.

P.S. If you could do what you do to my CJ for the "couple bucks" I'm throwing at it for the motor swap...it would've been a strong consideration...if you can get it to autonomously self charge, I'll be first in line (once this new motor croaks)

Matt1981CJ7 said:
KDub, I just got caught up on this thread. Nice work, so far.

I'm curious, do you think the cracked block was a known condition by the PO before you bought it?
Click to expand...
Matt...I'm not one to point fingers...at least try not to be...especially in this case. However the thought has crossed my mind a few times.
  • the fact that it slowly and incrementally increased "normal operating temperature" since 4 months after I had it...like the "stop leak" was successful, but wearing away.
  • the fact that after I flushed the system, therefore washing out the "Bars" or whatever stop leak might have been in there, is when some of the "weird" symptoms started to show up...always just thought the secondary color in the coolant was rust...not convinced now
  • the fact that the crack is pretty well concealed for as large as it is under the intake/exhaust manifolds
But, eh, is what it is and now that I found the guy to build the motor and am in the process, kinda excited about it!!!
 
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Keith M.
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