I had the same prob on the passenger side of my wj i had to replace the entire light housing because of the set up from the factory becomes corrosive and looses the metal to metal contact to pass current. i fixed this with buying aftermarket tail lights for cheap off ebay they look 100% better than stock!

 

Sorry, I forgot to include that, my PO hacked the original light wires in half about an inch from the light housing and I just bought 2 brand new complete rear lights from 4wd.com :thumbsup:

 

get someone to hold the brake down while acc is on then put a fuse tester On the factory wires to make sure you have power going through

 

Does the signal work on that side? If so, that verifies the wiring and bulb are ok. I would then suspect a bad connection inside the signal multifunction switch.

The green wire carries the brake, signal and emergency flasher power.

 

Does the signal work on that side? If so, that verifies the wiring and bulb are ok. I would then suspect a bad connection inside the signal multifunction switch.

The green wire carries the brake, signal and emergency flasher power.

OK, I got the blinkers all hooked up, the drivers side front and rear DO work, the front side DOES NOT. The passenger side none of the blinkers work, I hate wiring :brickwall Can't find any brakes or bad spots in the green wire all the way to the front

 

Thanks Mike, I'll check when I get home. Will let you know :thumbsup:

 

Here's where I stand, went to discount auto and got a new flasher and new bulbs for the side running lights, replaced all and now all front and rear lights work, side lights still don't. Only the rear lights work on blinkers now. No brake lights at all. If I turn on the flasher the pass side front side light and the driver front light work. WTF :brickwall

 

Bump for the day crew :wave:

 

Well out of pure frustration, I went to lowes at lunch and pick up 30 ft of 4 GA wire (used for lighting Rod grounding) and reran all new dedicated grounds moving from 8 Ga to the 4 Ga. From the neg battery to the pass fender brass bolt, from the brass bolt to the front clip. from the brass bolt down through the frame to the passenger side rear light, then another cable over th the driver side rear light and lastly to the Dash. I have to finish them up tomorrrow, need more brass bolts to properly lock them down to the rear lights and the dash connections. After checking the lights again, they all work except the driver rear brake and the pass front blinker, Major improvements from where it was last night :2thumbsup: I guess 8 ga isn't thick enough, lesson learned :thumbsup:

 

Well out of pure frustration, I went to lowes at lunch and pick up 30 ft of 4 GA wire (used for lighting Rod grounding) . . .

Is that stranded wire? House wiring (even if stranded) is generally not flexible enough for automotive use. Copper "work hardens" from the vibration and movement and becomes brittle and eventually breaks. This is one of the reasons we don't use copper tubing for fuel lines. OK, all metals work harden, but copper is particularly susceptible to failure.

. . . I guess 8 ga isn't thick enough, lesson learned :thumbsup:

Not to argue with success, but 8 ga is plenty thick enough for pretty much everything except starters and winches. More likely, the action of rewiring just cleaned up some marginal connections.

 

The shoulder screws that hold the front fixtures on is the ground route.

I also have one brake light that is intermittent with all new fixtures, grounds and wiring harness. Mine has to be in the signal switch where the brake circuit passes through.