[Savemycj]

Before starting the body work I decided to double check the suspension mount placement. (The frame is upside down)

“Axle CL” marks the approximate position of the axle centerline with the weight of the vehicle on the springs.

With the springs unloaded, the axle centering pin is .5” behind the centerline. I was aiming for .75” but this should still work. With weight on the spring, this pin (and axle) will move forward toward the center mark.

 

[Savemycj]

And finally to the the tub itself! Here is the rear floor, both wheelhouses, and rear floor riser. These parts were ordered from Classic Enterprises. Classic Enterprises - Restoration, Reproduction Parts for Studebaker, Jeep & Ford

 

[Savemycj]

There are small mods that will need to be done to a few body panels before any spot welding can take place. For example, here I’m notching out the flanges on the rear floor where the riser goes.

 

[Savemycj]

The Classic Enterprise wheelhouses have a flange on the back. If your Jeep has a tailgate, theses flanges need to be removed. Pics for reference.

 

[Savemycj]

Some panels have small imperfections that need to be worked out for a proper fit up. For example, the wheelhouse support baffle flanges aren’t perfectly square.

While this may seem trivial, it is still enough that my spot welder won’t pinch the seam flat. This is easily fixed with a little hammer work on the bench, using a scrap piece as an anvil.

 

[Savemycj]

The baffles have been spot welded in place. I put the same baffle on both sides. I know this is incorrect, but I don’t have the machinery or patience to make the proper hat channel support for the drivers side wheelhouse.

also the floor riser has been connected to the rear floor. Up next should be the taillight panels to the wheelhouses.

 

[Savemycj]

The taillight panels need to rise 3 inches above the top of the wheelhouses. The top corner near the tailgate opening has a small reinforcement piece that sets the proper height.

The Classic Enterprise panels do not include the top corner reinforcement, so I made a couple. One in my hand and the other is spot welded to the panel.

 

[Savemycj]

And here are the taillight panels welded to the wheelhouses. Frustratingly, one of them ended up 1/8” out of square. But I can work around that.

hopefully this bottom pic adds more context about the corner reinforcement from the previous post.

Next thing is to attach the wheelhouses to the rear floor.

 

[lovett86]

That's pretty awesome what your doing. Keep up the great work man.

 

[Savemycj]

That's pretty awesome what your doing. Keep up the great work man.

Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I’ve never done anything like this before, and it wouldn’t be possible without the huge knowledge base here on the forum!

 

[Savemycj]

Now we’re getting somewhere!!! I’ve got the wheelhouses attached to the rear floor. It’s starting to resemble a Jeep tub. I didn’t have my phone with me at the time, so I didn’t get pics of the process. But here’s the result.

As far as methodology, I lined up the taillight panels with the rear of the bed. Clamped a straightedge across the top of both wheelhouses to keep the square, and spot welded all the seams.

After that, I double-checked that the taillight panels were square to the bed, and welded in the rear crossmember below.

 

[Savemycj]

For anyone else doing this, it’s very important that the wheelhouses are held square during fitup and welding. These parts are quite flimsy on their own, and it’s easy to accidentally attach things out of square. The tub gets stiffer as more parts are welded together. The stiffer the tub gets, the harder it will be to correct a problem later on.
Next I’m going to add the rear center body mounts, and get the tailgate surround ready for fitting.

 

[Rkuehljr]

It looks like you are doing great. I’m loving watching and can’t wait to see more.

 

[Hurricane4]

Great Work!

 

[keith460]

Nice work and you sure are giving that spot welder a workout. I know it is tough to hold the spot welder in place while pushing the handle down and holding the pieces in place square while welding. Sometimes you need a helper there to help with the spot welding.

 

[Savemycj]

Nice work and you sure are giving that spot welder a workout. I know it is tough to hold the spot welder in place while pushing the handle down and holding the pieces in place square while welding. Sometimes you need a helper there to help with the spot welding.

Sitting underneath the tub and spot welding overhead is the worst! Unfortunately I don’t have a helper, but I’ve acquired a few new clamps and 5 new sets of vice grips to hold everything together.

Quick question for anyone who’s used a machine like this before. Most of my spot welds look fine, but occasionally I get some like this. It’s almost like the hot metal is squishing out from under the tip? It only seems to happen to one tip, and not all the time. Any ideas what’s happening here? These welds still seem perfectly sound.

 

[Hurricane4]

Check out this link:

WeldHelp Resistance Welding Troubleshooting Guide - G.E. Schmidt

geschmidt.com

 

[keith460]

Quick question for anyone who’s used a machine like this before. Most of my spot welds look fine, but occasionally I get some like this. It’s almost like the hot metal is squishing out from under the tip? It only seems to happen to one tip, and not all the time. Any ideas what’s happening here? These welds still seem perfectly sound.

Had a few of those types of welds doing test pieces with 16 and 18 gauge steel. Learned to make sure the two mating surfaces are cleaned with Acetone, including the tips of the electrodes, and the surface where the electrodes will make contact with. And the important part is to mentally count how long you hold the spot weld during the process. I think it was around 2-3 seconds at the most for that gauge steel as it looks to be high current being applied for too long. The heat rings around the spot weld are a dead giveaway. So, two to three Mississippi's..... done.

 

[exheep]

It looks like probably not a square contact between panels and welder. An offset will not heat or apply enough pressure.
You’re looking for a smooth black nugget in the center of the weld. Like Keith said, keep the panels clean you should also dress your tips with a file on occasion.
Any questionable welds can be checked with a small chisel and hammer.

 

[Savemycj]

I know I said the tailgate surround would be next. Unfortunately I have to change plans. The tailgate surround will have to be one of the last parts added because of clearance issues with the spot welder.

I had the cowl sandblasted a few weeks ago. Today I mocked up the cowl and rear tub onto the frame for the first time. The rear tub is bolted to the frame, the cowl is not. Hopefully I’ll be able to mock up the floors and sides accurately. Still haven’t decided on the order of operations here.